As even Riesling must still be considered 'challenged' as an international varietal, it would be far too soon to speak of a Silvaner Renaissance, but there is little question about the fact that this grape is gaining a renewed acceptance in Germany that it has not had for years, with Franken leading the charge.

It is hard for many to believe that until 1964 Silvaner was the most widely planted varietal in Germany, but was dislodged by Müller-Thurgau as all those now forgotten new crossings became popular. Later, then, it was thrown out with the bathwater and today accounts for only about five percent of all German plantings. That it can be delicious was well shown in the regional finals for Franken yesterday morning, with Rainer Sauer's Lump showing particular well. That said, many of the finest growths will only be shown at the Grosses Gewächs tasting in Wiesbaden next month. More then…   Comments