After Württemberg, the region finals for the Ahr took place yesterday under a tent in the backyard of Christoph Dirksen's home in Beuel. Basically, this was another look at this small region's finest Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder as they call it in Germany. Since its departure from sweet rosé sold principally to the Dutch who love to camp on the upper stretches of the river, this region has gone through a number of stylistic changes…and there are numerous new faces challenging the old guard. Not only is there an enormous diversity of site and soil, but each winery has its own interpretation of what Pinot Noir should or could be here.

Some are still betting on the sumptuous, but often richly (alcoholic) unctuous style that made the region famous, others are looking to a cooler, mineral profile that probably has more long term potential, but is not so seductive in its youth. It freely admit that I prefer the latter wines, and have trouble drinking Pinot Noir with 14.5% alcohol, but know that I am by no means speaking for the majority. That Adeneuer, Deutzerhof, Meyer-Näkel and Stodden still defend their turf is clear, and well, is clear, but Burggarten, Kreuzberg, Nelles, Schumacher and Sermann-Kreuzberg are upping the ante…and even Brogsitter has a couple of wines that are very good.  Comments