Although the 2001 Pinot Noirs raised more questions than they answered, the ten flights of 2001 dry Riesling that we tasted a day later were without doubt the finest that I have seen since we began doing our 'Ten Year's After' events nine years ago. Of the forty wines, there was not one that I would not have enjoyed drinking over a lazily warm summer afternoon on a terrace overlooking the Rhine. The once all too penetrating acidities were now merely refreshing and highlighted the complexity of the mature fruit. Seldom have all of our erstwhile favourites shown so well as they did here, with Philipp Wittmann's lusciously spiced Morstein my personal favourite. Unfortunately for consumers, all of these producers are only just now beginning to lay down small quantities of their best wines for later sale or even to show in such tastings - nor do many restaurants still have much to offer in the way of mature Riesling. Yesterday afternoon, then, the Rheingau association showed a number of riper Rieslings at the Knyphausen estate, with a 1992 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg from Wegeler still showing well. Am now sitting in Wiesbaden with the 2010s. Slowly I must learn that tarts and tart acidity are two different phenomenon. Comments
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