2011 will be - already is - an early vintage in Germany. Given its precocity, some are likening it to 2003, but it wasn't that warm in the summer, nor are the alcohol levels so high and, given the early bud break, the growing season was longer than many might think. 2005? 2009? The grapes still look very healthy, and were already golden in colour more than a week ago, but if the rains continue it will be a race to bring in the harvest before it turns into a 2006 (disaster). In any case, I opened a bottle of the 2007 Absterde from Klaus-Peter Keller last night and was surprised at how mature it already was. He agrees, but adds that this Riesling it still showing well compared to many of its peers. 2009 may one day show a slightly similar development, but the acidity levels are higher and the harvest was 'normal'. That said, later, more difficult vintages with extended hang time - think 2008, 2004, 2002 or 2001 -- generally have more longevity. Consumers must either learn to accept austerity in a great dry Riesling during its youth…or producers like Trimbach with his Frédéric Emile must release them considerably later, just when the can begun to be enjoyed. Comments